
Spanish wines don’t suck, but they’re not very interesting either. I sort of gave up on them a while ago which is strange because I used to adore them
when I first got into wine years back; being literally “blown away”
by their overt jam packed qualities and dazzling array of exotic flavors as well as overall amazing bang for the buck. But nowadays with the exception of the five “traditional” Riojas that everyone talks about – La Rioja Alta, Marques de Murrieta, Lopez de Heredia, Hermanos Pecina and CVNE – there isn’t much that gets me excited. This sentence may seem like a segway in which I will now write
“wait…there is one producer who is doing amazing things…changing the face of Spanish wine for eternity,” but no, I am going down that lonely cliché road.
Spanish wines for me are overall disappointing. With so much out
there (3rd largest producer in the world btw) and so many diverse regions that contain a very rich history, they really should be better and more interesting. However what is so fascinating is that in the U.S. market there are two names
which keep popping up in most conversations about Spanish wine: Jorge Ordonez
and Jose Pastor. The only thing they have in common are the first two letters
of their first name. Other than that, they are worlds apart.
What have they contributed to the U.S. wine market, and where does the
future of Spanish wine lead if they are the kings? Ordonez is by far the better known of the two. A distributor who has been around since the late 80s but really became quite
famous in the early 00′s, Ordonez has revolutionized Spanish wine (or at least
that which is exported to the States) by giving it a modern and international
twist and in a sense branding Spanish wine as not only great value, but diverse. The big and voluptuous red wines from Priorat with 15% plus alcohol as well as the entire array of Grenache based wines from dozens of places in Spain that were literally unknown before;
places like Malaga, Campo de Borja, Borsao, Calatayud and more. I believe he
was actually the first distributor to bring Albarino to the U.S., but don’t quite me on that.
Going back to my early days, the Jorge Ordonez symbol on the back
of a wine was something I looked for; inexpensive names like Juan Gil, Tres
Picos and even Borsao were both high quality, affordable as well as pretty
unique within that price point; not only for the typical characteristics that
make a wine quality driven, but the flavors being something that I hadn’t yet
experienced at the time: coffee, toffee, licorice and tons of chocolate. I was
hooked and became even more excited after trying some of the higher end wines
like El Nido, Torremuga and of course, Termes Numanthia and Termanthia. I had a
sip of the 2004 vintage of the latter and deemed it at the time, the best wine
I ever had.
Before I begin my inevitable “what went wrong” Jorge
deserves a few more accolades. Regardless of one’s opinions of Ordonez’s wines,
the man has does great things for Spanish wine in general by bringing out such
a huge array of regions now so widely available in the U.S. Even if you hate
the wines he brings in and have other wines from those regions which you
prefer, it is important to remember that they would not exist without Jorge
leading the way. Secondly, and maybe of more importance, is the fact that
Ordonez demands low yields for production – apart from several of the cheaper
wines in his portfolio.
So what’s the problem: Well, people such as myself find the
wines from his portfolio exactly the opposite of what Spanish wine should be: too often
overoaked, overextracted; homogenous and often times trying too
hard to please the gods of the Wine Advocate. To taste a handful of his wines
is a harrowing experience; think if an English Christmas Pudding got into a
fight with the atomic bomb in Hiroshima 1945. Fruit bombs away and plenty of
it to go around. I have tried a good number of his wines from all across the various
Spanish regions and all too often they sing the song of homogeneity. If they
don’t all taste like Opus One then they all are similar in many respects with
french oak, vanilla and jam pounding away at the senses while Robert Parker
plays Mahler’s 9th symphony in his head. In short, they are not for me or for
many others. Nowhere is this more apparent than Rioja, which I would consider
the one area of the world that has the biggest dichotomy between traditional
and modern maybe apart from Barolo. While different styles abound, a good Rioja
should be medium bodied with that beautiful tripartite of primordial
Spanish flavors: plum, tar and leather. Some of the lighter ones like La Rioja
Alta and Lopez de Heredia take on more notes of pomegranates and cranberry,
developing typical Burgundian textures of forest floor and crunchy earth when
they age. Again, styles differ and it is not necessarily that all traditional
are good and modern are bad. Several of the modern ones can be ravishing sich
as Artadi which is done in French oak and does not utilize all 4 allowed
grapes, but still, it tastes like Spain and brings me back in my mind to being
in Spain. It shows up, when too often others don’t. Now that is all fine and
good, but the really modern Riojas from Ordonez are completely antithetical
to what Rioja should be. Most of the time they are 100% Tempranillo and fall under the Parker mantra: dark color, high alcohol, low acid, etc. I really
don’t get why one would want to do that. If you have 4 grapes to play around
with why not use at least 3 of them and experiment? Why would you want only
Tempranillo.
Still, Jorge Ordonez has been ruling the Spanish wine world for
sometime. Yet, more and more wine lovers are fed up with the kind of wines on
the market; giving up on Spanish wines except for occasionally dipping into one
of the last bastions of traditional Riojas listed above — most of the time Lopez
de Heredia. Then along came Jose Pastor….. Again, this is not a great segway.
Pastor is not well-known and with wines that are such small production, he
might never be. Sometime ago Asimov wrote about him in the Times and ever since
I have noticed increased interest from consumers. Pastor’s wines are
interesting, if for anything else, they are defying the trend in Spain. His
book is filled with an array of traditional producers from far off regions of
Spain so seldom seen on american shelves like Ribera Sacra and the Canary Islands.
He has a handful of decent bang for the buck grenache wines as well as some
higher end stuff that rarely goes above $50. In particular, I am a big fan of a
wine called Mencia from Guimaro a producer in Ribera Sacra. For $17 it is
great: lean, packed with exotic fruit and most importantly and unlike 95% of
other Spanish wines, it needs to show up. In our stores it is probably one of
my favorite under $20 wines, however Guimaro’s higher end stuff for $40-$50
leaves something to be desired for.
Jose Pastor is doing some decent stuff and people should be
excited. But I am not ready to jump on the Pastor bandwagon just yet. First of
all, I find that with people’s expectations for Spanish wine being so low,
traditionalists are becoming excited about anything these days. Be patient. More
importantly, Pastor’s wines represent a fundamental problem that I have always
had with serious wine geeks. Just because a wine smells like some unusual stuff
and comes from some off the beaten path place yet to be commercial, doesn’t
necessarily make it good. Sometimes a wine is contemplative and fun to smell
that we forget it actually doesn’t taste very good apart from one or two sips.
All too often these “natural wines” get boring and people simply
praise them because of what they represent, not for what they taste like. In
Pastor’s wines, take Los Bermejos; a Malvasia from the Canary Islands. Eric
Asimov raved about this and as a result, we sell quite a few. Now granted, we
rarely see Malvasia, let alone Malvasia from the Canary Islands and at $25 not
too shabby. But then I tried it. Sorry, this is one of those wines. A wine so
geeked out that we forget the fact that it is supposed to taste good and be
something we would want to drink a bottle of and not get bored with. Yes it
smells like the sea but it doesn’t taste like chicken. It is not something I
would want to drink and for those who sing its praises I would be interested to
see them put away more than a glass and feel the same about it.
There are plenty of other wines like this. Sorry! We want Jose
Pastor to succeed because we like what he stands for and I hope the wines
improve, but as of now, there is still very little coming out of Spain that I
am getting behind. Where will the next hot area of the world be?